Lighting for your scooter

Fog lamps on an ET4
 

A few customers have asked about increasing their headlight output to improve their night riding ability**.
Since I do quite a bit of night riding, I decided take on the challenge. Having already removed my mirrors and replaced
them with Third-Eye bar-end mirrors, it was an obvious choice to mount my auxiliary lamps where the mirrors were.

Why did I choose fog lamps rather than driving lamps? Because of the lean angle of a scooter (in a turn), the driving lamps
would not illuminate enough of the immediate environment. It is like running in pitch black with a tight spot lamp vs a
wide angled bright lamp that illuminates everything, IMO. And you not traveling so very fast that you need the long distance
lighting that driving lamps offer.

** The 2005 ET series headlamp utilizes an improved lens with Halogen bulbs (which is what I am running on my 2003 ET4).
The 2000 to 2004 models use the older and less efficient incandescent bulb and lens configuration.
Upgrading to the 2005 headlight will give you an immediate improvement!

I can do this installation if you like. Just call or email me.

 

Note: 2005 Halogen Headlight used

Low beam only
 

 

Low beam + Fog lamps
standard 55watt

 

High beam only

 

High beam + Fog lamps
standard 55watt

 

This is the fog lamp as it comes from the factory. I wanted a shape that would be a bit unusual. Another shape worked well - a small rectangle.

This unit is a relatively cheap one. Blazer UW8095 (from Tiger Lights, Inc.). $39.00 a pair from a local PepBoys.

In order to apply this fog lamp as I have here, obviously you will remove the mirrors and replace them with the lamps.

You may want to drill a hole in the bracket for the best placement of the lamps.

You can see the where the wires enter the headset.
     
Here you can see the wires exiting the headset. You'll need a standoff for the brackets to  clear the plastic headset. The right hand side a 1 inch standoff with a 1-1/16 bolt. For the left side, a 1-3/8 inch standoff with a 2-1/2 inch bolt and nut.
     

As you can see from the images at the top, your vision at night is greatly improved even with the included 55watt - (100watt output) bulbs. However, you may want even more light.

I chose the PIAA H3 85 W XTRA (= 130W output)  #13485

You'll have to pop off the rear retaining plate to change the bulbs. Also, you will need to change the standard bayonet connector with a blade type to match the new bulbs.

I chose these fog lamps because they are not plastic. They are cast aluminum with a glass lens -  allowing you to run a brighter bulb.

It is only prudent to utilize a relay switch when installing a set of fog lamps.

 Niehoff Relay p/n RL35301

An inexpensive relay that I used in my application.

     

Since this fog light kit comes with pre-made wires, you might as well use them. Also, note the use of the Kill Switch as the fog light switch (it takes some getting used to). You can do as I have or install a switch of your choice somewhere on the bike. By using a relay as shown you can be assured no one will accidentally turn your fog lights on without the ignition on.
  1. Disconnect the "kill switch" wires and permanently join them (if you use this switch to turn on the fog lights)
  2. Connect the ground wire lug from the 2 lamps to any bolt attached to the frame (black)
  3. Connect the power cable (blue with the inline fuse) from the relay (post 30) to the positive battery terminal
  4. One wire to the #1 terminal of the kill switch, to the relay (post 85)
  5. One wire to the #2 terminal of the kill switch, to the #1 terminal of the ignition key switch
  6. Ground wire to the relay (post 86)
  7. Finally, the power wire to the 2 lamps to relay (post 87)
     
It must be noted that this modifications may violate DOT laws. This modification is experimental and untested. Do these modifications at your own risk!

 

How did you like the tutorial? Click below!

lousy   great


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This page was last modified on: 05/21/05
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